Needle Felting 101: How to Easily Identify Different Types of Needle Felting Wool?

Jumping into needle felting can feel like starting a big adventure that’s exciting but a bit confusing too. There’s a lot to learn: different kinds of wool, needles, and so many new words. Our guide today, “Needle Felting 101: How to Easily Identify Different Types of Needle Felting Wool is here to help everyone who’s felt a bit lost with all these details.

Needle felting is pretty amazing when you think about it. You start with just wool and end up with all sorts of cool things, from little animals to decorations. But before you get there, you need to know a bit about the wool you’re using. There are so many types out there—some are super soft, while others are more tough and strong. So, how do you know which one to use for your project?

You might have heard of ‘roving’ and ‘wool tops’ and wondered if they’re just fancy names for the same thing. Well, they’re not. They tell you about how the wool is prepared and what it’s best for. But don’t worry, we’re here to clear up the confusion.

Let’s make this easy. Put the kettle on for a cup of tea (I’m partial to a good Yorkshire brew myself), and let’s break it down together. By the end, you’ll get the hang of the different wool types and know exactly what you need for your needle felting projects. So, grab your tea, get comfy, and let’s sort out this woolly world step by step.

What is Needle felting: 

Felt is made using needles with notches on the end (often referred to as barbs even though they are not) and repeatedly and carefully stabbing into the wool fleece. You will tangle the fibres together until the wool becomes firm. You can make flat or 3D needle felted pictures, sculptures, jewellery… the list is endless and no sewing.

Take me to needle felting for beginners

What is Wet felting?

This more traditional method uses water, soap and friction to tangle the wool/fibres together and produces some really stunning results. Merino is perfect for wet felting because it is a very fine wool. I really enjoy wet felting but still have so much to learn. Keeping the water in just one room is one of those lessons and so, until I have mastered that, I will continue to wear my wellies.

Wool is measured in Microns

The measurement of wool thickness. The lower the number the finer the wool. One of my favourites is grey Jacob wool and at 33-35 microns thick this is perfect for needle felting and shows very few needle marks; I use this for many of my own projects.

Can I Use Merino* Wool For Needle Felting?

I never use it for three dimensional needle felting unless I am blending colours or for contrast and detail. It is just too fine (around 23 microns) making it less suitable for needle felting (perfect for wet felting and some flat felting) as it takes so much longer to needle felt and shows a lot of unsightly needle marks. I don’t know why there are so many kits out there that use Merino but it can be really disheartening for a new needle felter who will not realise that it is the wool that is making it harder for them to learn.

*Choosing Ethically Sourced Merino Wool: A Guide to Humane and Sustainable Practices

When selecting Merino wool products, it’s essential to ensure they are ethically sourced from sheep raised in a humane manner. This means choosing wool from farms that do not engage in practices that could cause unnecessary discomfort or harm to the animals.

Many might not be familiar with some of the practices involved in wool production, which is why I’m highlighting the importance of making informed choices. Opting for non-mulesed wool is a step towards more ethical farming practices. It’s readily available and often at no significant additional cost. However, even if it were slightly more expensive, the benefit to animal welfare is well worth it.

Regions like South America and South Africa are known for their ethical wool production standards, avoiding harmful practices altogether. Meanwhile, New Zealand is moving towards legal measures to ensure better treatment of sheep, aiming to set a precedent in animal welfare. Despite ongoing discussions, Australia has yet to implement substantial changes in this area.

All the Merino wool I offer is non-mulesed and ethically sourced from South America or South Africa, ensuring full traceability. By choosing ethically sourced wool, we support not only superior quality but also the wellbeing of the animals and the integrity of our products.

What is Fibre?

Wool or whatever material you are using to felt with.

Raw Fleece:

Straight off the sheep’s back. And so begins the long and not altogether pleasant process of washing, washing, washing some more, processing then dyeing (if desired). Been there, done that, never again! I saw things in that fleece I can never un-see so I shall just leave it to the experts…

Wool Tops:  

This is probably what many of you are using for your projects but it is often referred to as roving as the two are commonly and, not surprisingly, confused but don’t worry because everyone will know what you’re talking about and, those that don’t will just think how knowledgeable you are on the subject of wool types. Win, win… Wool tops and carded wool are what I use in my needle felting creations.

The wool I use depends on the project and often involves a combination of both. Wool tops just means that the wool has been washed and combed so that all the fibres are going in the same direction. Tops normally come in long lengths wrapped up into a ball and are about the thickness of your wrist. You can choose from a vast range of natural and dyed colours and breeds. Wool top separates easily if you pull gently; pull hard and the fibres will lock together (wool has tiny scales which lock together which is why it is perfect for wet or dry felting).

Take me to needle felting patterns

Roving:

Is a slightly ‘scruffier’ version of wool tops but is often referred to as wool tops . Although it comes in long lengths it is thinner, more  loosely carded (see below), tends not to follow the same direction, gives a rougher finish and will most likely have small pieces of vegetable matter within the wool. This is still a great needle felting wool which gives a rougher finish and is great for working around a wire armature.

Carded Batts And Carded Slivers: 

Wool that has been washed and then carded on a machine or hand carder (like a giant round hairbrush) which blends the fiber so that it is running in different directions and creates much shorter fibres.  Batts come out in thick, springy sheets and slivers are in long lengths; perfect for wrapping around a wire armature.

                                                                           

Curly Wool locks:

Love these and fabulous for adding texture and details to pictures, brooches, for beards and hair on gnomes and fairies etc. They are usually cleaned and left natural, or dyed.

Staple:

The length of the wool which depends on the sheep it has come from and can be long or short. As I live in Lincolnshire it seemed only fitting that the photo at the top of the page should be the Lincoln Longwool.

Core Wool: This is a cheaper wool  used by some for the core/middle of larger 3D needle felting projects. You then felt the top layers with your ‘best’ wool. Some people use polyester toy filling as their core but I can’t comment on it as I have never tried it…For my average size needle felting project I just roll up the wool I am going to use and felt that way. It really is personal preference but life size pieces can become quite expensive if you decide not to use core wool.

Pre-felted sheets: The wool fibres are only felted until they are matted but not yet shrunk. It is then rinsed, allowed to dry and can be used as the base for a design, usually pictures. Pre-felt can be bought or you can make it yourself. I always use Shetland-pre felt.

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